Is surf therapy a thing?
So it has taken me a lifetime to finally get the courage to publish this, I’m feeling very vulnerable and exposed as it is something I don’t really talk about to friends or even family… Whaaat! Now I’m about to tell the world in the hope that it might help maybe one other person?!
So I’m gonna press ‘Publish’, run away and hide, BYEE.
There is something about surfing, it is very addictive, you feel free and nothing else matters. All that matters is the feeling of your feet being submerged in the water whilst you wait for the sets to roll in. That refreshing feeling of water on your face and pure joy when you stand up and surf, the feeling under your feet is indescribable. It isn’t always perfect, don’t get me wrong but overcoming the elements and fear is pretty amazing and wipe outs are all part of the fun, right?
Unlike your average UK surfer interview you see in magazines like ‘Surf Girl’, ‘Carve’ or ‘Wave Length’, I grew up in a totally non-coastal area in the UK. In fact we were living 8 miles from a shop, in a little village. Living in a little cottage house, an old farm down a mile long track, far from everything. We had two sheep, chickens, damson trees and three beautiful cats, not a surfboard in site.
My hobbies included climbing trees, rolling myself down grassy hills, swimming in rivers, feeding the sheep, cuddling the cats, building kit cars, singing and dancing to Queen, Pink Floyd and Dire Straits. Oh and selling ice creams to walkers passing by (entrepreneur in the making).
Primary School was great, (even if it was 8 miles away from where we lived), I swam for my school and ran Cross Country for my town and had some great friends.
I remember being the funny one, loved my friends and just wanted to have fun. Unfortunately, that all changed. Continue reading “Surf therapy?”